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Climbing Routes

27 January 2010

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This list outlines many of the possible routes on the wall. A route can be climbed using only the bolt-on holds, or by also using the moulded natural features. These features include ‘pockets’ and ‘smears’. ‘Pockets’ are the deep holes and ‘smears’ are the moulded edges.

The routes are graded assuming that you use the ‘smears’ as foot holds in addition to the stated colour of bolt-on holds.

If only the ‘smears’ are used for footholds, the route will typically increase in difficulty by about a grade.

If ‘pockets’ and ‘smears’ are used for footholds, the grade of the route will decrease.

Routes finish at the highest hold on the route.

Please add your comments / grade suggestions to the list at the reception area. If you climb a combination that is not shown on this list, and you think it is particularly good, please let us know and we will add it to this list.

Bolt No. Holds Grade Comments
1 Green 6b
1 Purple 4+
1 Pink 6c+ Rounded holds!
2 Light Blue 7a+ Clip off last bolt - hard
2 Smears 7c+ Has been tried many times, hard at the top!
2 Black 6c Much harder if you only use blacks for footholds, not smears
3 Red 6b+
3 Orange 6c Some very slopey holds and a long reach near the top
4 Black 5+
4 White 7a Quite hard at the bottom and it doesn't get much easier at the top!
4 Green/White 5 Very reachy and quite powerful, 8a for the vertically challenged
5 Electric Yellow 6b Don't get bitten by the turtle, quite technical near the bottom and a hard move near the top
5 Dark Blue 5 Try it on smears for footholds - quite pumpy, about 6a+
5 Grey 6a+ Fingery, with a hidden hold below and left of the top bolt
6 Green 5 Juggy
6 Orange 6b+ Very positive but steep
6 Black 7a Up and right onto the prow
7 Green & White 5+ Steady to top
7 Purple 7b Hard bouldery start
7 Red 5+ Quite pumpy - try it with smears only for feet, a good pumpy climb
8 Bright Orange 6b Do a few laps! - Positive but pumpy
8 Yellow (new) 6a+ Very reachy but positive
9 Blue 6b Open Handed Heaven, keep moving and don't get pumped
9 Turquoise 7a Reachy in places but made easier if you find the knee bar
9 Electric Blue 5+ Enjoyable climbing
10 Blue 5
10 Green 5+
11 Smears 6b Use smears only for feet and hands. Best route on the crag (P. Holmes)
11 Purple/Black 6a
11 Orange/Red 6a+
12 Yellow 4
12 Green 6b+
12 Smears 7c Has it been done???