INTRODUCTION

Many of us began rock climbing on climbing walls. The accessibility, the relatively defined nature and the less serious atmosphere often means that such locations are ideal for beginners and appropriate places to introduce others to rock climbing. Climbing walls can allow a high level of performance to be developed prior to venturing out onto natural rock. Either indoor or outdoor venues are now available for novices to start rock climbing.

The number of organised groups enjoying rock climbing and abseiling on outcrops, crags, quarries and climbing walls has risen for many years. Mountain Leader Training Northern Ireland (MLTNI) is concerned to ensure that high standards of supervision are maintained, so that both enjoyment and safety are enhanced without compromising either the sport or the participation of others. High standards are achieved through experience, personal qualities, training and validation.

This document provides advice for anyone involved in taking groups to indoor and outdoor climbing walls and abseil towers and particularly for candidates working their way through the NORTHERN IRELAND CLIMBING WALL SUPERVISORS AWARD SCHEME (CWSA). It is designed to support the knowledge and experience of candidates, trainers and assessors without prescribing methods. There are many technical manuals, developed by climbers, which will continue to illustrate evolving techniques and these notes are designed to complement such literature.

The Climbing Wall Supervisors Award is valid throughout Northern Ireland.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Many people have contributed to the preparation of this Handbook by attending MLTNI working party meetings and by making detailed and constructive comments on the draft. Grateful thanks are due to the many instructors, MLTNI board members and staff of Tollymore Mountain Centre.

Published by Mountain Leader Training Northern Ireland

Tollymore Mountain Centre, Bryansford, Newcastle, BT33 0PT

Tel: 028 4372 2155 Fax:028 4372 6155 Email: admin@tollymoremc.com

May 2005

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EXPERIENCE REQUIREMENTS

Please consider the advice given below. You should note that the figures given are absolute minimums and that the most successful candidates will have well in excess of the experience outlined;

· To be involved in the CWSA scheme you need to be actively involved in rockclimbing (indoors or outdoors) and have an interest in the supervision of novices in the activity. A minimum of 6 months climbing experience is expected.

· Before attending a Training Course you must first register with Mountain Leader Training Northern Ireland. This will provide you with a logbook and your personal details will be entered on the database.

· To get the most out of your training course you must have climbed on at least two different climbing walls. You must be able to lead routes on a climbing wall. Without having done at least this, you are unlikely to play a constructive part on the course or be able to make best use of the training.

· Between Training and Assessment you must consolidate new ideas and techniques and gain additional climbing experience. Your trainer will advise you about the amount and nature of the personal climbing and supervising experience you should gain.

· Candidates should not present themselves for Assessment until they have logbook evidence of:

Climbing on a climbing wall on at least 30 different occasions during the 12 months prior to assessment

2. Leading a variety of routes on at least two different climbing walls

3. Assisting with the supervision of at least 10 climbing sessions on at least two different climbing walls


PROGRESSION THROUGH THE CWSA SCHEME

1.    EXPERIENCE (Personal climbing, assisting groups, Related mountaineering activities and training)
2.    REGISTRATION (With MLTNI, Fulfil minimum requirements)
3.    TRAINING (Select and attend a training course) 
        OR
       EXEMPTION (apply for exemption from training to Secretary of MLTNI)
4.    CONSOLIDATION (Build experience based, gained on training)
5.    ASSESSMENT
6.    FURTHER EXPERIENCE (Personal climbing, working with groups, Attending further training events, Registering with other MLTUK awards)

1 PROSPECTUS

1.1 INTRODUCTION

The numbers of organised groups enjoying climbing and abseiling climbing walls has multiplied in recent years. MLTNI is concerned that high standards of supervision are maintained, so that both enjoyment and safety are enhanced, without compromising either the sport of climbing or the participation of other wall users. High standards of supervision and organisation are best achieved through experience, personal qualities, training and validation.

This scheme has been designed to provide a level of basic competence for those who are in a position of responsibility during climbing activities at walls. Whilst the award does include a measure of personal competence it is not designed as such, and should not be used as either an entry requirement or measure of suitability for individuals who wish to climb on climbing walls.

1.2 SCOPE OF THE SCHEME

The scheme is for those who are in a position of responsibility during climbing activities on indoor or outdoor climbing walls, towers and other artificial structures. It is primarily concerned with good practice, leading to the safe and quiet enjoyment of the activity. Completion of a training course alone, without passing the assessment course, is not a qualification in itself, although it may be of considerable personal benefit to the trainee.

It is valid throughout Northern Ireland.

For the purposes of this scheme, a climbing wall is:

· An artificial structure, designed for the purpose of being used for climbing and abseiling activities

· Indoors or outdoors

· It will be the responsibility of the employer or organising authority to develop management strategies for the employment of Award Holders out with this remit.

If you are in doubt about a particular venue then members of MLTNI, members of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors or the British Association of Mountain Guides are the appropriate people to approach for advice.

It is the duty of the employer or organising authority to decide whether a leader possesses the personal attributes needed to take responsibility for the care of young people and beginners. It is the combination of technical skills, wide experience and personal qualities that form the basis for effective supervision. This scheme assesses the technical skills and experience; the employer or organising authority must gauge the personal qualities.

The scheme does not cover:

· General rockclimbing skills, such as those needed to climb and / or supervise others on natural crags (these are covers in the Single Pitch Award Scheme)

· Multi‑pitch rock climbing skills, the teaching, or supervision, of leading, (these are covered by the Multi Pitch Award and Mountain Instructor Scheme)

· The gauging of candidate’s personal qualities.

1.3 STAGES IN THE SCHEME

The scheme comprises:

· Pre-registration personal climbing experience

· Registration, and being issued with a logbook

· Minimum two day training course

· Consolidation period between training and assessment

· Minimum one-day assessment course

· Continuing experience entered in logbook

1.4 REGISTRATION

Candidates wishing to register with the Award should:

· Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and the supervision of groups on climbing walls

· Have at least 6 months experience of using climbing walls

· Have climbed on walls on at least 10 different occasions

· Be able to lead routes on a climbing wall

· Be not less than 18 years of age at the date of registration

Candidates should allow fifteen working days for their application to be processed and returned.

On receipt of the registration form and appropriate fee, MLTNI will issue a logbook. Candidates' personal details will be recorded and progression through the scheme will be detailed on the MLTNI Database.

1.5 TRAINING

Before attending a training course, candidates must be registered with the Climbing Wall Supervisors Award (CWSA) (see 1.4 above). Candidates must have at least 6 months climbing experience and have climbed on walls on at least 10 different occasions.

Training courses are run by Tollymore Mountain Centre, are at least two days long and include evening sessions (20 hours contact time). Training courses run with a minimum of four candidates and a maximum of eight. The maximum trainer/candidate ratio is 1:4. Larger courses have dual benefits: the varied experience of the candidates enables an individual to have a better chance of seeing how their own skills compare and they also get the opinion of two trainers.

The training course is for potential leaders and assumes basic competence as a climber with experience of leading climbs (see Experience Requirements). It will emphasise those skills which candidates might have difficulty in learning without expert guidance. A few minor aspects of the syllabus may not be covered during the training course and candidates are expected to deal with these items themselves.

The Director of Training will give oral comments to each candidate and will endorse the training course report page of the logbook with comments about the programme, walls used and situations encountered. Candidates will receive individual recommendations for the consolidation period. The training course does not involve any written reports concerning the performance or standard of candidates. An approved stamp will be put on the endorsement page of the logbook by the Director of Training and will show the date and course provider information. In exceptional circumstances it may be possible to register on, or immediately after, the course, but the trainer is obliged to submit a report to MLTNI containing all registered candidates’ details within 30 days.

Candidates are encouraged to use the skills checklist in the logbook to evaluate their current skills and to plan, with their trainers, their particular route towards assessment.

1.6 LOGBOOK

Experience gained by candidates should be recorded in the logbook. Entries should be concise, easily read and should include all rock climbing and other relevant experience.

The logbook is divided into five sections:

· Personal details, contents and endorsement pages

· Course reports and personal profile

· Personal and group leading/supervising experience

· Experience requirements, definitions, sample pages and skills checklist

· Additional training information

The logbook is designed to help you demonstrate your previous experience to others. You must fill it in before a training course to enable the trainers to discuss your particular needs and to agree which areas of the syllabus you need to concentrate on before taking an assessment. Few of us can remember every detail of every occasion that we have gone climbing or visited a climbing wall, but this is no reason to avoid using the logbook. List examples of the variety of experiences you have gained and give details of the most notable (or exciting) sessions. The information you give does not have to be verified by a third party but will form the basis for discussion at training and assessment.

1.7 CONSOLIDATION PERIOD

Candidates will generally see many new ideas and techniques during training and will therefore need some time to practise and evaluate these before taking the assessment. During this period of consolidation, candidates are advised to climb at as wide a range of walls as possible, both as an individual and when assisting the supervision of others. MLTNI recommends that all but the most experienced candidates allow a minimum of six months between training and assessment. There is currently no time limit on the validity of a training course and some candidates may take several years to complete the award.

1.8 ASSESSMENT

Before attending an assessment course, candidates should:

· Have registered

· Have attended a training course or been granted exemption from training

· Have gained further experience (see Experience Requirements)

· Be proficient in the use of climbing walls

· Lead competently

· Have recorded a minimum of 30 personal visits to at least two different climbing walls

· Have assisted a qualified supervisor (or holder of a higher qualification) on at least 10 instructed sessions on at least two different walls.

· Hold a valid First Aid Certificate

During the assessment course, which is one day long, candidates will be tested in accordance with the syllabus requirements. The assessment is run by Tollymore Mountain Centre.

Assessors work on a ratio of 1:4 (or less). The overall course size can range from two candidates to eight. Larger courses have dual benefits: the varied experience of the candidates provides individuals with better opportunities for comparing skills whilst ensuring that each candidate receives the opinion of two assessors.

The Director of Assessment will endorse the logbook in one of three ways:

PASS: where satisfactory knowledge and application of the syllabus and the necessary experience, skills, knowledge and attributes were demonstrated.

DEFER: where the performance was generally up to standard but complete proficiency was not attained in some aspects of the syllabus. Some form of re-assessment will be required.

FAIL: where the performance has been generally weak, or the necessary experience and attributes have not been shown. Further training may be recommended before another complete assessment is taken.

In all cases the result will be discussed with you and recorded in your logbook (the page is inserted by the course provider/director. Candidates who are deferred or failed will receive specific written feedback, including an action plan. This will include the reasons for the result, recommendations on the additional experience needed and details of the timing and format for subsequent re-assessment.

In considering the decision of the assessors, candidates are asked to listen to all elements of the final interview and wherever possible to raise any concerns at that time. If, on reflection, the discussion and the written report do not fit your impression of the assessment and your performance, then contact the course provider/director for additional clarification, in writing if necessary.

1.9 EXEMPTION

Experienced climbers who already have substantial personal climbing experience and experience of supervising groups on climbing walls may apply to the Secretary of MLTNI to be exempted from attendance at a training course. There is no exemption from assessment.

Before applying for exemption, candidates should consider the following points:

· The training course is not a personal skills climbing course. It introduces candidates to the skills necessary for supervising novices on climbing walls.

· It includes material that might be unfamiliar to even experienced climbers

Candidates applying for exemption should:

· Be registered with the scheme

· Complete an exemption application form

· Submit a copy of the completed logbook experience pages with the exemption application form and fee to MLTNI

Exemption application forms and details of fees are available on request from MLTNI

1.10 CLIMBING WALLS

For the purposes of this scheme, a climbing wall is:

· An artificial structure, designed for the purpose of being used for climbing and abseiling activities

· Indoors or outdoors

· It will be the responsibility of the employer or organising authority to develop management strategies for the employment of Award Holders outwith this remit.

1.11 EQUAL OPPORTUNITIES

Mountain Leader Training NI is committed to promoting equal opportunities for all participants in climbing and mountaineering. Candidates, trainers and assessors should express a positive attitude towards equal opportunities and act as positive role models.

1.12 FIRST AID

Prior to attendance on an assessment course candidates must hold a valid first aid qualification. The first aid course must involve at least sixteen hours of instruction, include an element of assessment and cover basic life support and emergency aid.

1.13 APPEALS PROCEDURE

MLTNI has an established appeals procedure that will be carried out in the following order:

· Dialogue between candidate and course provider to establish the reasons for the decision and the subsequent recommendations before re-assessment.

· Contact the Chair of MLTNI for discussion and additional clarification.

· Write to the Chair with details of your appeal. They will then ask the course provider/director to respond in writing, supplying any original paperwork. The Board will appoint an independent Mountaineering Instructor Certificate holder (MIC) (or someone with a higher relevant qualification) to arbitrate and give his/her view on the validity of the decision with any additional recommendations for both the provider and the candidate.

· The Chair, in consultation with the independent MIC will reach a decision, to be conveyed by the Chair to the candidate. This decision, in consultation with members of the Board, is final.

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2 SYLLABUS

2.1 TECHNICAL COMPETENCE

Candidates must demonstrate competence in the following areas:

2.1.1 Equipment

· Identify equipment suitable for personal and group use at a given climbing wall

· Demonstrate an ability to evaluate the condition of equipment and ensure appropriate care and maintenance

· Demonstrate the ability to use climbing wall equipment appropriately

2.1.2 Belaying

· Connect self and others to the rope

· Set up sound belay systems to single and multiple anchors at the top of a climbing wall

· Attach self to the belay system

· Demonstrate the use of direct and indirect belays

· Use a variety of different belay techniques/devices competently and choose the most appropriate for a given situation

· Set up top and bottom rope systems and choose the most appropriate system for a given situation

· Hold falls and carry out lowers

2.1.3 Abseiling

· Abseil without the use of a safety rope

· Set up fixed and releasable abseils, using a safety rope for student abseilers where necessary

· Use a variety of different devices and methods competently and choose the most appropriate for a given situation

· Solve common abseiling problems such as tangled ropes, inadvertent locking and pendulums

· Demonstrate methods of safeguarding a novice abseiling

2.1.4 Personal Climbing Skills

· Choose and lead routes suited to personal ability

· Move with confidence on appropriate climbs

· Demonstrate a basic understanding of the safety chain and fall factors

2.1.5 Background Knowledge

· Demonstrate an understanding of:

- The history, traditions and ethics of UK rock climbing

- The Home Nation Training Boards and MLTUK

- The club system and the Mountaineering Councils

- Competition climbing

2.2 THE CLIMBING WALL ENVIRONMENT

Candidates must demonstrate competence in the following areas:

2.2.1 Using Climbing Walls

· Interpret and use effectively the information given at walls and other sources of information

· Show an awareness of, and ability to obtain information on and ability to comply with, locally important rules and regulations

2.2.2 Etiquette

· Demonstrate an awareness of responsibilities to the general public, including other facility users and the climbing community

· Operate a flexible programme of activities so as to accommodate other site users

· Be aware of the hazards presented to other site users by the actions of a group, and act to minimise these

· Demonstrate an awareness of the site-specific requirements and agreements relating to different climbing walls and artificial structures

2.3 SUPERVISION

Candidates must demonstrate competence in the following areas:

2.3.1 Organisation

· Plan a day's programme of activities to take place at an artificial climbing structure

· Assess the abilities and objectives of the group participating in this plan

· Check underlying aims and the objectives of the event

· Demonstrate an awareness of responsibility to any authorising organisation, parents, individual group members, the group as a whole and other site users

· Demonstrate an understanding of the impact of weather on climbing, if appropriate

· Have built-in flexibility when planning activities in order to respond to changing circumstances

· Know how to call for expert help in the case of an accident or injury

2.3.2 Group Management

· Demonstrate the safe and responsible management of all group members irrespective of whether or not they are directly involved in the climbing activity

· Brief individuals and the group appropriately

· Manage the individuals and the group effectively by:

- Good communication skills

- Setting and reviewing targets

- Identifying and reacting to the needs of the group in relation to involvement, interest, enjoyment and achievement

· Supervise a group of novice climbers belaying

· Manage time appropriately in relation to the plan, activity and conditions

2.3.3 Supervising the Session

· Issue appropriate rock climbing equipment and check correct fitting and use

· Deliver technical instruction to individuals and the group including:

- Choice and fitting of suitable harnesses

- Attaching the rope to the harness

- Advice, demonstration and coaching on climbing movement

- Demonstration of effective use of chosen belay device

- Safe use of friction device for abseiling

· Demonstrate an understanding of how to avoid common problems such as a stuck climber/abseiler

· Solve common problems including:

- Stuck climber whilst on a top or bottom rope

- Stuck abseiler whilst abseiling with a safety rope

· Demonstrate the use of bouldering activities with groups

· Demonstrate an understanding of warming up and injury avoidance techniques

· Understand the needs of those with physical and mental disabilities and medical conditions

Personal Safety

Throughout any training or assessment course there will inevitably be times when all, or some of the party will be operating from, or near the top of the wall. Trainers must ensure that all the candidates are comfortable with the situation they are placed in, and offer guidance and training in how to protect themselves appropriately. This should be ongoing throughout the course and take into consideration that the weather, prevailing conditions and locations will vary.

CLIMBING WALL SUPERVISORS AWARD - INFORMATION AND REGISTRATION

General Information

The scheme is for those who are in a position of responsibility during climbing activities on indoor or outdoor climbing walls, towers and other artificial structures. It is primarily concerned with good practice, leading to the safe and quiet enjoyment of the activity. Completion of a training course alone, without passing the assessment course, is not a qualification in itself, although it may be of considerable personal benefit to the trainee.

It is valid throughout Northern Ireland.

For the purposes of this scheme, a climbing wall is:

· An artificial structure, designed for the purpose of being used for climbing and abseiling activities

· Indoors or outdoors

· It will be the responsibility of the employer or organising authority to develop management strategies for the employment of Award Holders out with this remit.

If you are in doubt about a particular venue then members of MLTNI, members of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors or the British Association of Mountain Guides are the appropriate people to approach for advice.

It is the duty of the employer or organising authority to decide whether a leader possesses the personal attributes needed to take responsibility for the care of young people and beginners. It is the combination of technical skills, wide experience and personal qualities that form the basis for effective supervision. This scheme assesses the technical skills and experience; the employer or organising authority must gauge the personal qualities.

Stages in the Scheme

The scheme comprises:

· Pre-registration personal climbing experience

· Registration, and being issued with a logbook

· Minimum two day training course

· Consolidation period between training and assessment

· Minimum one-day assessment course

· Continuing experience entered in logbook

Registration Requirements

Candidates wishing to register with the Award should:

· Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and the supervision of groups on climbing walls

· Have at least 6 months experience of using climbing walls, on at least two different walls

· Be able to lead routes on a climbing wall

· Have visited and used walls on at least 10 different occasions

· Be not less than 18 years of age at the date of registration

· Complete and return the registration form below with the appropriate fee (£15), cheques should be made payable to Sports Council for Northern Ireland

Candidates should allow fifteen working days for their application to be processed and returned.

On receipt of the registration form and appropriate fee, MLTNI will issue a logbook. Candidates' personal details will be recorded and progression through the scheme will be detailed on the MLTNI Database.